Nova Scotia Wines: An Interview with Pete Luckett

Second, the wines that are being made in Nova Scotia are very in vogue right now. The grapes that can be grown and the wines that can be produced in the province are really what a lot of consumers are looking for. For the past 15 years, big flavour reds with high alcohol levels from Australia [such as Shiraz] have been popular worldwide. But right now, in the world demand of wines, crisp, acidic and fresh tasting new white wines are very in vogue. Nova Scotia can produce those very well. An example would be Nova Scotia’s new appellation wine Tidal Bay. In terms of business, agricultural labour is a challenge. A lot of the large farms in Nova Scotia, such as apple growers and different produce growers, use immigrant labour primarily from Jamaica and Mexico with very good success. This will benefit the grape industry as it grows but, right now, it’s not easy for a small grower to use import labour. You have to supply housing and airfare arrangement. It’s very complex and it’s challenging for a small operator to be able to get that organized and have a housing unit ready. Marketing can also be a challenge. Taking the marketing of your business to another level is expensive. When you’re a small operator, it’s very difficult to build in a marketing plan that will help you sell your wines internationally. So, what we can only try to strive for is recognition, at first locally, and then eventually on the national level. The other big thing is the relationship that has been developing and just recently solidified with Acadia University [Wolfville, Nova Scotia] and the NSCC [Nova Scotia Community College]. Both of these schools have created programs that support the local grape industry. Acadia University, in particular, has created a research and development program [the Atlantic Wine Institute], offering services for taking grape growing to a new level in Nova Scotia. For example, Ontario has Brock University and Niagara College, both of which really devote their lives to viticulture and viniculture. We’ve never had that in Nova Scotia. To have this first step of a partnership with Acadia University is very exciting for the entire industry. Economically, the business plan for most wineries is still probably a bit tough. The wine business is very romantic but to actually make it into a financial business that does well is challenging. For me, I can see that in several years we may turn that corner and turn it into a business that makes money. Most wineries in Nova Scotia that have started up or are starting up are all fortunately subsidized by a previous owner’s other business. To start it up with just your life savings is very difficult. It’s a front-end loaded investment business. But I do see that corner turning as the wine industry continues to evolve. I think there will be more momentum and more support. Who knows? Maybe we can even dream of some government support programs. But, fundamentally, it’s going in the right direction. The growing of the grapes and the quality of the wines are on a dramatic improvement course. I see that continuing. Of course, I’m immersed in it and I would never be negative about it, but personally, I only see it as a business that is being celebrated by the Nova Scotia consumer. To have agriculture take off in the Annapolis Valley of Nova Scotia, after a faltering apple industry that was on an incredible roll for 50 years and then lost its way and never really gained ground again, is …