The leek (le poireau), often called in French l’asperge du pauvre (the asparagus of the poor), remains an unsung vegetable. As a commodity, it cannot claim to have built empires, like sugar or coffee. Rather, its “political role” in history may be that it kept revolutions at bay by feeding poor people cheaply. French and English historical cookbooks testify to this. For example, in 1861, the ever-practical Mrs Beeton offered a “very affordable” leek soup recipe, costing it at 4d. per quart of soup. By comparison, her “very economical” potato soup recipe averaged 3d. per quart. In other words, only potatoes were cheaper than leeks. Like the onion, its cousin, the leek is a winter vegetable, inexpensive, sturdy, and resistant; it will keep for several months, thus its association with farmhouse cooking, and rustic food. This image endures: the Centre technique interprofessionnel des fruits et légumes (CTIFL, in Paris), conducted a national study about leeks in 2010. French consumers under 35 years old (the target market) described leeks as “traditional,” associating it, as one would expect, with home-made food, comfort food (such as soups), conviviality and family; its health properties were well-known (very low in calorie and an excellent diuretic). The leek may be said to have a “double personality.” It has long been prized for its aromatic properties, and praised as an essential addition to stocks (along with the onion), and soups or stews (the French pot-au-feu, among other “one-pot-dishes”). Even the great Escoffier considered leeks as absolutely necessary for sauces and broths. Conversely, as the principal ingredient of a dish, leeks remain associated with a handful of rustic, “cuisine-on-a-budget” fare, in particular with the poireaux en vinaigrette, which are simply well-cooked leeks, served with a mustard-based vinaigrette, as an entrée; the tarte aux poireaux, a variation on quiche; the famous potato and leek soup (combining Mrs Beeton’s affordable and economical ingredients); and the poireaux bretons, in which cooked leeks are wrapped in a slice of ham, and served in béchamel sauce topped with slices of hard-boiled eggs. In recent years, in an effort to shake this “cooking-for-the-poor” image, vegetable-growers associations invited chefs to re-invent the vegetable. Québec producers have joined their French counterparts’ efforts, to produce over 250 recipes, freeing the leek from its (perceived) limited applications. It now has a full répertoire of its own, from shellfish (including the delicate noix de saint-Jacques), to the use of the leaves as innovative and savory papillottes for salmon. The farm-to-table movement also rediscovered leeks. Among the twelve or so heirloom varieties available, the poireau de Créances stands out: long and thin, its delicate white flesh can measure up to 20 cm (8 inches, as opposed to four or five in. for the common winter leek). So tender it can be eaten raw, it recently earned an Indication géographique protégée from the European Union, recognizing its qualities and its terroir. Not bad for a humble vegetable. Brussels sprouts are also a winter vegetable. Like onions and leeks, they can last several months if kept properly. According to the FoodLand Ontario website, brussels sprouts were introduced in North America by Thomas Jefferson, which is a perfectly respectable way to enter any continent. Despite its eminent godfather, the petit chou enjoys a bad reputation. It may even be said to be one of the most unloved vegetables. Except if one adds butter to it. Mrs. Eliza Acton urged serving brussels sprouts with “good butter,” along with “a rather thick round of toasted bread buttered on both sides.” Mrs. Beeton, influenced by Acton, recommended serving the …